Your Complete Guide to Growing Creeping Thyme (With Seed Starting Tips)
After growing creeping thyme for over three decades, I can say it’s one of my favorite ground covers. My dad first introduced me to it in his garden back in the 70s, and I started with a small patch near my front steps in Massachusetts. Now it’s spread into a beautiful carpet that brings a smile to my face every spring when it bursts into bloom.
Creeping thyme (Thymus serpyllum), also called mother of thyme, grows as a low mat of tiny green leaves that becomes covered in small purple, white, or red flowers. Native to northern Europe and parts of Asia and Africa, it’s found its way into gardens worldwide – and for good reason.
What draws many gardeners to creeping thyme is how easy it is to grow. It handles poor soil like a champ, doesn’t need much water once established, and stays green most of the year. I’ve planted it between stepping stones, in rock gardens, and even tried it as a small lawn replacement. Nothing beats the feeling of walking barefoot on thyme – it releases this wonderful scent with each step.
Want to add some creeping thyme to your garden? Let me share what I’ve learned about growing this fantastic plant.

Hardiness Zones for Creeping Thyme
I’ve grown creeping thyme in my Massachusetts garden (zone 6) for over 30 years, and it’s proven to be one tough plant. It’s hardy in USDA zones 4-9, meaning it can handle cold winters and hot summers across most of the country. Even during our harshest winters, my plants bounce back every spring without any special protection.

What Creeping Thyme Needs to Thrive
Growing creeping thyme successfully starts with the right spot. In my Massachusetts garden, I’ve found it grows best in full sun, though it can handle partial shade. My patch near the maple tree gets about 4 hours of sun and still manages to flower, just not as heavily as the plants in my sunny border.
This plant isn’t picky about soil – that’s one of the things I love about it. My garden has sandy, poor soil that most plants hate, but creeping thyme grows like a dream. The key is good drainage. I learned this the hard way when I first planted some in a low spot that stayed wet after rain. The plants just sat there, turned yellow, and eventually died. Creeping thyme hates wet feet!
Once established, this plant is tough as nails. During last summer’s drought, my creeping thyme kept going strong without extra water while other plants wilted. It seems happiest in soil that’s neutral pH (between 6.5 and 7.5).
Height-wise, expect your creeping thyme to stay low, about 2-3 inches tall. Perfect for edging paths or growing between stepping stones without taking over.

The Best Time to Plant Creeping Thyme
After years of spring planting, I’ve found the sweet spot for planting creeping thyme is early spring to early summer. I wait until after our last frost date, usually mid-May, to plant. This gives the roots time to settle in before summer heat hits.
Getting Your Soil Ready
Before planting, I spend time preparing the soil. Nothing fancy – I just mix in some compost to help with drainage using the same soil I use for my raised beds. One spring I skipped this step and regretted it – the plants took twice as long to establish. A little organic matter makes a big difference, especially in heavy soil.
Planting Your Creeping Thyme
Space your plants about 8 to 12 inches apart. Don’t worry about the gaps – they’ll fill in nicely. I planted some last spring spaced 12 inches apart, and by fall they had grown together into a solid mat.
When planting, dig holes slightly larger than the root balls. I gently loosen the roots if they’re wound tight around the pot – a trick my dad taught me years ago. Plant at the same depth as the container, firm the soil around the roots, and water well.
Young Plant Care
For the first few weeks, keep the soil evenly moist but not soggy. I check my new plants every couple of days. Once you see new growth, you can ease up on watering. By mid-summer, they’ll be tough enough to handle dry spells on their own.

Starting Creeping Thyme from Seed
Many gardeners don’t know this, but you can grow creeping thyme from seed. I’ve done it many times when I needed a lot of plants for ground cover. It takes patience – these plants grow slowly their first year – but the money you save is worth it.

When to Start Your Seeds
I start my seeds indoors about 8-10 weeks before our last frost date. In Massachusetts, this means I’m usually sowing in late February or early March. You can also direct sow outdoors in late spring when temperatures stay consistently in the high 60s.
Seed Starting Basics
Here’s something crucial I learned: these tiny seeds need light to germinate. I press them gently into the soil surface without covering them. The soil temperature should stay around 70°F, and I keep the soil consistently moist until germination, which usually takes 21-28 days.
Caring for Seedlings
Once the seedlings have two sets of true leaves, I thin them to one plant per cell. Keep them under grow lights or in a bright window, and water gently to avoid disturbing these tiny plants. A light feeding of slow-release fertilizer helps if your soil is poor, but good compost works just as well.
First Year Growth
That first year, don’t expect much spread. My seedlings typically grow into small plants about 2-3 inches high. Each plant will eventually spread to about a foot wide, but it takes time. These plants are slow growers their first season – they’re focusing on developing strong roots.

Pro Tip: Starting seeds in late winter gives you the longest possible growing season. If you’re direct sowing outdoors, wait until soil temperatures warm up and all danger of frost has passed. For the best success rate, prepare your soil by mixing in 2-3 inches of compost or aged manure before planting.
Growing in Containers
While creeping thyme typically grows in the ground, it does well in containers with the right care. Use a fast-draining potting mix with added grit or perlite – regular potting soil holds too much moisture. In winter, move containers to a protected spot or against the house wall to prevent the roots from freezing solid. Container plants need more frequent watering than ground plantings, but still let the soil dry between waterings. Try creeping thyme in my three tiered herb planter!

Propagating Creeping Thyme
Want free plants? Creeping thyme is incredibly easy to propagate, and I’ll show you my foolproof method using stem cuttings.
Taking Stem Cuttings
Here’s my step-by-step process:
- Grab clean, sharp scissors or pruning shears (I always sterilize mine with alcohol first)
- Cut 1-inch sections from healthy stems
- Remove leaves from the bottom half
- Plant in well-draining potting mix
- Water lightly but consistently
Keep your cuttings in a bright spot but out of direct sun. They should root within 2-3 weeks, and then you can transplant them into their permanent homes.

Beyond Ground Cover: Can You Eat Creeping Thyme?
I know my herb-loving readers always ask about eating their plants, so here’s the scoop on creeping thyme: Yes, both the leaves and flowers are completely edible! While creeping thyme (Thymus serpyllum) is mostly grown as a ground cover, I often snip fresh leaves for cooking. The flavor is milder than regular garden thyme (Thymus vulgaris), but it still adds that lovely thyme taste to soups and stews. My favorite way to use it? The tiny purple flowers make the prettiest garnish for summer salads – they always get comments at garden parties. They also look pretty in ice cubes when I make infused water. Just remember, if you’re planning to eat your creeping thyme, skip any chemical treatments. I stick to organic growing methods for all my edible plants. For tips on drying thyme visit, How to Dry Thyme: Air, Oven, Dehydrator & Microwave Methods.

Fertilizing Creeping Thyme
Here’s something I love about creeping thyme – it doesn’t need much fertilizing at all. In fact, too much fertilizer can make plants grow soft and floppy, which isn’t what you want in a ground cover.
I give my plants a single application of balanced, all-purpose fertilizer in early spring when new growth starts. Sometimes I skip the commercial fertilizer entirely and just work some compost into the soil instead. Either way works fine.
If your plants are growing in really poor soil, you might want to give them a light feeding. But remember – these plants naturally grow in lean soil conditions. I’ve learned that too much kindness with fertilizer just leads to weak growth and fewer flowers.
Pro Tip: Skip feeding altogether if your creeping thyme is growing well. These plants are true low-maintenance champions, and in most cases, less really is more when it comes to fertilizer.

Using Creeping Thyme in Your Garden
After many years of growing creeping thyme, I’ve tried it just about everywhere in my garden. Here’s what I’ve learned about where it works best.
Rock Gardens and Walls
This plant really shines in rock gardens – I have it spilling over stones and softening edges in my front yard rock garden. It’s also perfect for rock walls, where it cascades down in sheets of green that burst into purple blooms come summer.
Border and Container Planting
As a border plant, it stays neat and tidy. I’ve lined my herb garden paths with it, and the scent when you brush against it is wonderful. It even does well in containers, though I’ve found it needs more regular watering than when it’s planted in the ground.
Lawn Substitute?
A lot of people ask me about using it as a lawn substitute. Yes, you can, but there’s a catch. While creeping thyme handles light foot traffic just fine – think garden paths or between stepping stones – it won’t take the kind of wear and tear that regular grass can. In my backyard, I use it for areas we walk through occasionally, not where kids or pets play regularly.
Pro Tip: If you’re planting between pavers or stones, give the plants room to spread. I made the mistake of planting too close together once, and ended up with overcrowded plants that didn’t perform as well.
Natural Pest Resistance
Good news for gardeners dealing with deer and rabbits – creeping thyme naturally repels these garden visitors. I use it as a border around my vegetable garden where it acts as a natural pest deterrent. The strong scent also helps keep cabbage moths and other vegetable pests away.
Companion Planting with Creeping Thyme
In my vegetable garden, creeping thyme makes an excellent companion plant for cabbage, broccoli, and other brassicas. It also grows well near eggplants and tomatoes. I avoid planting it too close to basil or mint, as these aggressive herbs can overwhelm it. Plant it around the edges of beds rather than in the middle where it might get shaded out by taller plants.
A Haven for Pollinators
My creeping thyme patch buzzes with activity from spring through fall. Honey bees love the flowers, but I’ve noticed native bees are the most frequent visitors. Butterflies, especially small ones like skippers, often stop by too. For the most pollinators, I’ve found Red Creeping Thyme and Mother of Thyme varieties attract the most visitors.

Maintaining Your Creeping Thyme
One reason I love creeping thyme? It’s about as low-maintenance as plants get. After 30 years of growing it, I can tell you it needs very little attention to thrive.
Regular Care
During the growing season, I pretty much leave it alone. It doesn’t need fertilizer, and once established, it’s drought-tolerant. I only water during extremely dry spells, and even then, it usually bounces back on its own.
Pruning and Trimming
After flowering, I give my plants a light trim to keep them tidy and encourage new growth. You can use garden shears or even a weed trimmer set on high – I’ve done both with good results. This quick haircut helps prevent woody stems from developing too quickly.
Winter and Seasonal Care
Here in Massachusetts, my creeping thyme handles winter just fine without any special care. The plants go dormant, but they’ve survived some pretty brutal winters. In spring, I clean up any dead spots and trim back woody stems to make way for new growth.
Pro Tip: After about 3-4 years, you might notice the centers of your plants getting woody and less vigorous. That’s normal. I divide these older plants in early spring, replanting the healthy outer edges and discarding the woody centers.
Common Creeping Thyme Problems and Solutions
After decades of growing creeping thyme, I’ve encountered most problems you might face. While it’s generally a trouble-free plant, here are the main issues I’ve dealt with and how to fix them.
Problem | What It Looks Like | Cause | Solution |
---|---|---|---|
Root Rot | Yellow leaves, wilting plants, mushy roots | Poor drainage, overwatering | Plant in well-draining soil, reduce watering. I learned to check soil moisture before watering |
Spider Mites | Tiny webs on leaves, yellowing, stippled leaves | Hot, dry conditions | Spray plants with water, introduce beneficial insects. I spray down plants weekly during dry spells |
Woody Centers | Middle of plant dies out, looks bare | Natural aging | Divide plants in spring, replant healthy outer sections |
Poor Growth | Plants stay small, few flowers | Compacted or poor soil | Add organic matter when planting. I mix in compost every spring |
Leaf Spot | Brown spots on leaves | Too much moisture on leaves | Water at base of plant, improve air circulation |
Winter Damage | Dead patches in spring | Harsh winter conditions | Plant in protected areas, avoid wet winter soil |
Pro Tip: Most problems I’ve encountered came from poor drainage or overcrowding. Give your plants good air circulation and well-draining soil, and they’ll usually stay healthy on their own.
Popular Types of Creeping Thyme
After growing different varieties over the years, I’ve found each type has its own special qualities. While all creeping thymes are ground covers, they vary in flower color, scent, and growth habits.
My Favorite Varieties:
- Red Creeping Thyme – Lowest growing with deep pink flowers; my go-to for path edges
- Woolly Thyme – Fuzzy gray leaves; great in rock gardens
- Elfin Thyme – Tiny leaves and pink flowers; perfect between stepping stones
- White Creeping Thyme – Beautiful white blooms; brightens shady spots
Unlike common thyme (Thymus vulgaris) that grows upright and is used mainly for cooking, creeping thymes stay low and spread. They all have that classic thyme scent when crushed, though it’s typically milder than culinary thyme.
For the strongest fragrance, I’ve found Red Creeping Thyme works best. Plant it where you’ll brush against it regularly to release its aromatic oils.

Growing creeping thyme has brought me years of garden joy – from the beautiful purple blooms in spring to the wonderful scent when I walk on it in summer. Whether you plant it between stepping stones, use it as a ground cover, or add it to your herb garden, this tough little plant won’t let you down. Just give it sun, good drainage, and a little room to spread. Before you know it, you’ll have a carpet of fragrant, flowering thyme that takes care of itself. Ready to get started? Your local garden center should have plants, or try growing some from seed – either way, you’re in for a treat with this easy-care perennial.
Happy gardening!
