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How to Grow and Care for a Lavender Tree: Complete Guide for Indoor and Outdoor Success

Here at Celebrated Herb, we've spent over 15 years cultivating, pruning, and nurturing lavender in all its forms. Among my favorites are lavender trees (also called lavender topiaries), which bring Mediterranean elegance to any space with their slender trunks and cloud-like tops of silvery-green foliage and purple blooms.

After growing dozens of these beautiful specimens both indoors and outdoors—some purchased ready-made and others I've trained from scratch—I'm excited to share everything I've learned about these stunning plants. Whether you're a novice who's fallen in love with a potted topiary at the garden center or an experienced gardener looking to create your own living sculpture, this comprehensive guide covers it all.

In this ultimate lavender tree resource, you'll discover:

  • How to select the perfect variety from English, French, and Spanish lavender options
  • Step-by-step instructions for creating your own topiary (with photos of each stage)
  • My tried-and-true care techniques for both indoor and outdoor environments
  • The "Thriller, Filler, Spiller" strategy for creating gorgeous lavender tree planters
  • Season-by-season maintenance calendars to keep your tree thriving year-round
  • Troubleshooting solutions for common problems (yes, even root rot!)

I've designed this guide to be your one-stop reference for everything lavender tree related. Their compact form makes them perfect for smaller spaces while still delivering that intoxicating fragrance lavender is famous for—and with the right care, they'll bring you joy for years to come.

So whether you're dreaming of creating your own touch of Provence on a city balcony or adding architectural interest to your herb garden, you'll find all the practical advice you need right here. Let's get growing!

A white planter with a Lavender tree and other herbs planted around the bottom.

This growing guide is part of our full Herb Index, where you’ll find care instructions, propagation tips, and harvesting timelines for each herb.

Lavender Tree Quick Start Guide

For the Impatient Gardener

Need the basics fast? Here's your crash course in lavender tree care:

Indoor Trees:

  • Pot: Choose one just 1-2" wider than root ball with excellent drainage
  • Light: Brightest window possible (south-facing ideal)
  • Water: Let top 2" of soil dry between waterings
  • Soil: Mix regular potting soil with extra perlite and sand
  • Prune: Remove any shoots from the trunk; shape top into a rounded form

Outdoor Trees:

  • Location: Full sun (6+ hours daily)
  • Soil: Well-draining with added grit/perlite
  • Water: Deeply but infrequently (weekly at most)
  • Winter: Bring potted trees inside in zones below 7
  • Prune: Shape after flowering; remove trunk shoots immediately

Common Mistakes to Avoid:

  • Overwatering (the #1 killer of lavender trees)
  • Using regular garden soil (too heavy and moisture-retaining)
  • Placing in low light (causes leggy, weak growth)
  • Over-fertilizing (leads to floppy growth with fewer flowers)

Now scroll down for the full guide if you want to become a lavender tree expert!

Our chocolate lab sitting with a store bought lavender tree.

What Is a Lavender Tree?

Lavender trees are a gardener's clever illusion - they're not actually trees at all, but rather ordinary lavender plants that have been convinced (through strategic pruning) to grow up instead of out. While standard lavender grows as a bushy shrub, these topiaries (fancy word for "plants trained into specific shapes") feature a single bare stem topped with a rounded puff of fragrant foliage and flowers. They are quite stunning!

The most common varieties for creating these topiaries are English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) and Spanish lavender (Lavandula stoechas), though French lavender works too. English varieties tend to be more cold-hardy, making them better choices for outdoor trees in cooler climates.

These compact beauties typically grow 2-3 feet tall with a rounded top that can spread about 1-2 feet wide. They're perfect for small spaces, container gardens, or adding vertical interest to herb beds without taking up much ground space.

Lavender tree in a planter with bright flowers in the forefront.

Best Varieties for Lavender Trees

Not all lavender makes good topiary material. After testing dozens of varieties in my garden over the years, I've discovered which ones have the right growth habit for tree forms. Some varieties grow too densely, others too sprawling, and certain types simply refuse to maintain that classic rounded top shape. Through careful observation and side-by-side trials in my herb garden, I've found these varieties work best:

For Beginners:

  • 'Hidcote' English lavender: Compact growth and sturdy stems
  • 'Munstead' English lavender: Naturally upright habit makes training easier
  • 'Anouk' Spanish lavender: Quick-growing with distinctive flower shape

For Cold Climates:

  • 'Arp' English lavender: Survives down to zone 5 outdoors
  • 'Phenomenal' English lavender: Handles humidity better than most

For Indoor Trees:

  • 'Goodwin Creek Grey': Tolerates indoor conditions well
  • 'Silver Anouk': Attractive silvery foliage even when not blooming

Remember, the smaller-leaved varieties are usually easier to shape into tidy trees. Those giant lavenders might look impressive in fields, but they tend to get floppy when trained as standards. Trust me on this one – I've swept up enough fallen lavender trees after summer storms to learn this lesson the hard way.

Lavender tree in a ceramic pot next to the kitchen sink.

Purchasing a Pre-Trained Lavender Tree

Let's face it – not all of us have the patience to train our own lavender trees. Sometimes you just want the instant gratification of a perfectly formed topiary without the months of pruning and training. No judgment here! I've certainly bought my share of pre-trained lavender trees when I needed that quick pop of Mediterranean herb charm for a garden party or gifting occasion.

The beauty of buying a ready-to-go lavender tree is the simplicity – you get to skip straight to the enjoyment part. While creating your own (instructions below) can be rewarding, there's something wonderfully easy about bringing home a specimen that's already been shaped by someone who knows what they're doing!

For Indoor Use:

  • Choose compact varieties like 'Goodwin Creek Grey' or miniature English types
  • Check for pests hiding under leaves (they always seem to show up the day after the return policy expires)
  • Examine the trunk for strength and straightness
  • Select specimens in plain nursery pots rather than decorative ones - they're usually healthier and less root-bound
  • Look for trees with new growth at the top - a sign of health
A lavender tree in a basket on my bakers station in my kitchen.

For Outdoor Planting:

  • Larger specimens with thicker trunks stand up better to wind and weather
  • English lavender varieties offer better cold hardiness for northern gardens
  • Check that the root ball isn't circling inside the pot
  • Avoid trees with woody, leafless patches - they won't fill in later
  • Spring-purchased trees establish better than fall purchases in cold climates

I've found quality lavender trees at unexpected places. Local nurseries often have the best selection in spring, while online specialty herb nurseries offer unique varieties year-round. Big box stores occasionally have them too, though quality varies wildly (I've rescued some sad specimens from clearance racks and nursed them back to good health). 1-800 Flowers carry the Spanish variety. Keep an eye out at Trader Joe's as well – they carry lavender trees for a couple of weeks in the spring at surprisingly reasonable prices.

Expect to pay $25-45 for a well-formed 12-15" tree, and up to $75 for larger specimens. The price is usually worth it considering the years of enjoyment you'll get from these statement plants.

A potted lavender tree from Trader Joes.

Step-by-Step: Creating Your Own Lavender Tree

You don't need a fancy horticultural degree to create a lavender tree - just some patience and a good pair of pruning shears. I've trained dozens over the years, often starting with plain nursery plants that cost a fraction of pre-trained topiaries.

Start with a young, healthy lavender plant that has a strong central stem. This will become your "trunk." Look for specimens with one naturally dominant stem if possible - it'll save you time and frustration.

Supplies & Tools List

Plants & Soil:

  • Lavender plant(s) (ideally already separated, or separate them yourself. For this lavender tree I'm using English Lavender - Lavandula angustifolia)
  • Small to medium-sized pots with drainage holes (Choose a pot only 1-2 inches wider than the root ball)
  • Well-draining soil (a mix with sand or grit is ideal, see my homemade lavender soil recipe)

Pruning & Shaping Tools:

  • Clean, sharp pruning shears or garden snips
  • Bamboo stake (or any sturdy plant stake)
  • Soft plant ties or twine (something that won’t cut into the stem)

Optional but Helpful:

  • Gloves (lavender can be a bit scratchy)
  • Potting tray or newspaper (to keep your workspace tidy)
  • Spray bottle (for gentle watering or misting)
  • Plant labels (if you’re working with multiple plants)

Step-by-step Process

  1. Separate and Pot Your Plant

    If your lavender came in a large pot with multiple plants, carefully separate them and place each one into its own pot. Choose a pot that allows for some root growth but isn’t too large—lavender prefers slightly snug conditions. Make sure the pot has good drainage, and use a well-draining soil mix, ideally with a bit of sand or grit.A large lavender plant that is made from 3 seperate plants.

  2. Select Your Stem

    Choose the strongest, most upright stem to become your “trunk.” If none stands out, pick the healthiest-looking one.The single plant with a straight stem.

  3. Clear the Bottom

    Remove all the side branches from the lower two-thirds of your chosen stem using clean, sharp pruning shears or snips. Leave only the leafy growth at the top. It might look a bit bare at first, but don’t worry—the foliage will fill in and take shape as the plant grows.Clearing the bottom branches of the plant.

  4. Support the Plant

    Plant lavender in the post and insert a bamboo stake into the soil next to your chosen stem and loosely tie the stem to the stake using soft garden ties. This helps it grow straight as it matures. Water thoroughly. Lavender tree with plant stake supporting it.

  5. Shape the Top

    After several months of growth, begin gently pruning the top into a rounded shape. Take your time—small, frequent trims are better than dramatic cutbacks.Shaping the top of the lavender tree.

  6. Maintain Regularly

    Keep an eye on your plant and remove any new shoots that pop up along the trunk. These can quickly turn your tree back into a bush if left unchecked.The lavender tree in a clay pot next to a plant mister.

The whole process takes about 4-6 months from start to something that resembles a proper tree. Be patient - your lavender needs time to develop that sturdy trunk before it can support a full, bushy top.

Lavender stem cuttings in my hand.
English Lavender - Lavandula angustifolia 'La Diva Vintage Violet'

Tip: Don't toss the branches you trimmed off the main stem. Visit my post on propagating lavender to turn those cuttings into free plants! Those healthy stems are perfect candidates for creating new lavender additions to your garden or giving as gifts to friends. Why waste what could become beautiful new plants?

Tips For Planting Your Lavender Tree

Whether you've created your own lavender tree or purchased one, proper planting makes all the difference. These Mediterranean natives hate wet feet more than I hate weeding in August heat.

For Container Growing:

  • Choose a pot only 1-2 inches wider than the root ball
  • Ensure excellent drainage (drill extra holes if needed)
  • Use terra cotta pots for best moisture balance
  • Add a layer of gravel at the bottom

For Garden Planting:

  • Select a spot with full sun (6+ hours daily)
  • Prepare soil with plenty of grit or sand mixed in
  • Create a slight mound for improved drainage
  • Space trees at least 2 feet apart

My soil-mix recipe is simple: 3 parts potting soil, 2 parts perlite, 1 part sand. For outdoor plants, I add a handful of lime to nudge the pH toward alkalinity. Lavender evolved in poor, rocky soil, so save your fancy compost for needier plants - too much rich organic matter actually works against lavender's health.

When transplanting, handle the trunk carefully - it's more fragile than it looks. Set the plant at the same depth it was growing previously. Water lightly after planting, then step away from the watering can. The most common mistake new lavender growers make is killing with kindness (and overwatering).

Top view of a planter with a lavender tree.

Indoor Lavender Tree Care

Lavender may be a sun-loving Mediterranean native, but with the right setup, it can absolutely thrive indoors. The trick? Mimicking its natural environment without turning your living room into a Tuscan hillside. Here's how to keep your indoor lavender tree looking good (and not slowly dying on you while you wonder why).

Choose the Right Container

Bigger isn’t always better. Use a pot that's just 1–2 inches wider than the root ball—lavender likes things a little snug. Too much soil = moisture hanging around = root rot. And trust me, once root rot sets in, it’s like a slow-motion plant funeral.

Go for terra cotta or unglazed ceramic pots if you can. They breathe better than plastic and help keep soil from staying damp too long. Bonus: they look great, especially with lavender’s silvery-green leaves.

Indoor Potting Soil That Works

Lavender is not into rich, moisture-holding potting mixes. I like to mix my own using:

  • 2 parts standard potting soil
  • 1 part coarse sand or horticultural grit
  • 1 part perlite

This keeps things light, fast-draining, and just gritty enough to make lavender feel at home.

Soil, pots and a shovel.

Light: The Make-or-Break Factor

Your indoor lavender tree wants a front-row seat to the sun. South-facing windows are ideal—lavender needs at least 6 hours of direct sunlight a day, and more if you can swing it.

North-facing window? Sorry, you’re going to need a grow light. I use one in the winter and my lavender barely notices the difference (unlike me, who starts counting the days till spring by mid-November).

Temperature & Humidity

Lavender prefers things on the cool side at night (around 60°F) and doesn’t love big swings in temperature. Keep your plant away from heating vents, drafty doors, and the dreaded heat blast from forced air systems.

As for humidity? Skip the humidifier. Lavender likes it dry, not tropical. If your house feels like a desert in winter, your lavender is probably happy.

Airflow = Happy Lavender

Stagnant air is a problem. A gentle fan nearby can do wonders—especially in winter, when we tend to shut the windows and pretend fresh air is for people with porches.

Just don’t blast it. You’re creating a breeze, not a wind tunnel.

Watch Out for Indoor Pests

Lavender isn’t a magnet for pests, but spider mites, aphids, and fungus gnats can sneak in if conditions are too cozy. Keep an eye under leaves and near the soil.

If you see webs, sticky residue, or little flying annoyances, try:

  • Spraying with diluted neem oil
  • Wiping leaves with a damp cloth
  • Letting the soil dry out between waterings (gnats hate that)

Preventing Leggy Growth

If your lavender starts stretching toward the light like it’s in yoga class, it's not getting enough sun. This is where that grow light earns its keep.

Also: rotate your pot every few days to keep growth even, and pinch back tips to encourage bushiness.

Fertilizing Indoor Lavender Trees

Less is definitely more when fertilizing indoor lavender trees – these Mediterranean natives actually bloom better in lean conditions. For my container trees, I use a simple homemade mix (1 tablespoon each of Epsom salt, baking soda, and fish emulsion in a gallon of water) applied very sparingly just once every 3-4 months, starting in early spring when new growth begins. The baking soda helps maintain the alkaline soil pH (6.7-7.3) that lavender trees love, while providing gentle nutrients without promoting the floppy, overgrown foliage that results from overfeeding and ultimately leads to fewer fragrant blooms.

Lavender tree in a basket in my kitchen on my diy bakers station.

Outdoor Lavender Tree Care

So, you’ve taken your lavender tree outdoors—either because you live in a mild climate or you’re giving it a summer vacation from the windowsill. Good call. Lavender loves being outside, as long as you don’t plant it in a swamp or leave it to freeze its roots off.

Pick the Right Spot

Lavender is basically a sun addict. It needs 6–8 hours of full sun every day to stay happy and compact. Less than that, and it’ll stretch out, sulk, and maybe even stop blooming.

Choose a spot that’s open, bright, and not too breezy—especially important while your tree is still getting established. And if your soil tends to stay damp after rain? You’re better off sticking with a pot (or improving drainage, see below).

How to Plant (Without Burying It Alive)

If you’re planting directly in the ground, dig a hole the same depth as the root ball and about twice as wide. Set your lavender tree in so the top of the root ball sits level with the soil surface. No burying the trunk—that’s a fast track to rot city.

Space trees at least 2 feet apart if you’re planting multiples. They need airflow, not a crowd.

Backfill with your amended soil (more on that next), press gently to remove air pockets, and water lightly to settle everything in.

Outdoor Soil: Keep It Loose and Lean

Lavender doesn’t need gourmet soil—it wants something that drains quickly and mimics the rocky slopes of southern France (but without the vineyard views, sadly).

Here’s my go-to soil blend for outdoor planting:

  • Native soil
  • Coarse sand or crushed granite
  • A bit of perlite for added airflow

Skip the compost and manure. I know it feels wrong, but lavender thrives on tough love. Too much richness = floppy growth and fewer blooms.

If your soil is heavy clay, consider planting in a raised bed or mound instead. It gives the roots room to breathe and stay dry between waterings.

Weather Woes and How to Outsmart Them

Lavender trees are more delicate than their shrubbier cousins. If you live in a windy area, stake your tree for the first year or two—nobody wants a top-heavy plant flopped over like a bad haircut.

In cold climates (zones 5–7), don’t leave your tree out all winter unless it’s in a super-sheltered spot and the variety is cold-hardy. Even then, mulch around the base with gravel or straw and consider wrapping it in burlap if temps dip into the single digits. For more information on lavender in Zone 6 visit my post.

Container-grown outdoor trees? Move them into a protected garage, porch, or even indoors for winter if your area freezes solid. Just remember to ease them back outside in spring so they don’t go into shock (yes, plants do that too).

Pests and Diseases (AKA the Usual Suspects)

Outdoors, lavender is usually pretty tough—but it’s not invincible. Keep an eye out for:

  • Aphids: Tiny green suckers. Blast them off with a hose or use insecticidal soap.
  • Spittlebugs: Those weird little foamy blobs? Yep, them. Harmless, just annoying. Wipe 'em off.
  • Fungal rot: Usually caused by overwatering or poor drainage. If your plant starts looking sad and mushy, dig it up and check the roots. Brown and squishy = game over.

Prevent most issues by giving your lavender space to breathe, not overwatering, and resisting the urge to “feed” it too much. It’s a tough plant—it just wants sun, air, and dry feet.

Fertilizing Outdoor Lavender Trees

Outdoor lavender trees need even less fertilizing than their indoor counterparts – in fact, most problems I've encountered stem from too much fertility rather than too little! For trees planted in garden beds, a single application of balanced, slow-release fertilizer in early spring is typically all they need for the entire year; if your tree looks pale or produces fewer blooms, try a light sprinkling of compost around the base (never against the trunk) or add a handful of crushed eggshells which provides calcium while maintaining the alkaline conditions these trees crave from their native Mediterranean habitat, where they naturally thrive in poor, rocky soil with minimal nutrients.

Outdoor lavender tree. the Spanish variety.

Creating Beautiful Lavender Tree Planters

Sure, a solo lavender tree in a terra cotta pot is charming on its own. But if you’re anything like me, you’ll eventually find yourself eyeing that empty space around the base and thinking, What else can I plant in there?

The good news: With the right container and lavender companion plants, you can turn your lavender tree into a real showstopper. The kind of thing that makes neighbors ask, “Is that lavender?!” The bad news: It’s easy to overdo it. So let’s keep it classy.

Choosing the Right Container (That Looks Good and Works)

Visual appeal is important, but function comes first. Your container should:

  • Be at least 12–16 inches wide for mature trees (room for roots and companion plants)
  • Have excellent drainage (lavender’s #1 rule)
  • Be made from breathable materials like terra cotta, unglazed ceramic, or wood

Want something bold? A square planter in concrete or a modern matte black pot can make the silvery foliage pop. Prefer cottagecore vibes? Go with an aged terra cotta or weathered wooden barrel. Just make sure it drains.

The Thriller, Filler, Spiller Formula (A Gardener’s Cheat Code)

This classic container method keeps things balanced and beautiful:

  • Thriller: That’s your lavender tree, the star of the show
  • Filler: Mid-height plants that add color or texture without stealing the spotlight
  • Spiller: Trailing plants that soften the edges and cascade over the pot
A graphic image of a planter showing the thriller (lavender tree), filler (daisy flower) and Spiller, (trailing greens.)
The actual planter showing thriller, filler and spiller. Lavender tree, white low growing flowers and rosemary with thyme spilling.
Thriller: Lavender tree, Filler(s) Rosemary and Iberis-Snowsurfer Forte Candytuft, Spiller Lemon Thyme.

Here’s where it gets fun.

Best Trailing Plants to Pair with Lavender Trees

Lavender likes it dry, sunny, and breezy—so pick companions with similar tastes.

  • Silver Falls Dichondra: Silvery, elegant, and low-maintenance. A total stunner in sun.
  • Sweet Alyssum: Tiny blooms, sweet scent, and tough as nails. Plus, pollinators love it.
  • Creeping Thyme: Bonus points for being edible and drought-tolerant. Creeping thyme looks great tumbling over the edge.
  • Trailing Lobelia: Bright blues and purples that contrast beautifully with lavender’s soft hues. Needs a bit more water, but will survive if not totally ignored.
Thyme next to blue Lobelia in a clay pot.
Blue Lobelia with spilling Lemon Thyme

Low Growers for Around the Base

Want to fill in around the trunk without choking it out? Try these ground-huggers:

  • Small Sedums: Low-profile, colorful, and super drought-tolerant
  • Miniature Ornamental Grasses: Add texture without hogging space
  • Woolly Thyme: Soft, fuzzy, and so dang cute you’ll want to pet it
  • Iberis Candytuft: Creates a cloud of white blooms around your lavender's trunk

Planting Without Smothering Your Lavender

This is key: leave breathing room around the trunk. You want air circulating at the base to prevent rot and mildew. Don’t mound soil up high—keep the crown of the lavender tree at its original planting level.

Tuck in companion plants around the outer edge of the pot, leaving a 2–3" space around the base of the trunk. Think of it like giving the lavender its own personal bubble.

Showing space around the base of the lavender tree.

Seasonal Planter Combos

Lavender is evergreen in many climates, so you can dress the pot up year-round:

  • Spring: Lavender + sweet alyssum + woolly thyme
  • Summer: Lavender + dichondra + creeping thyme + mini zinnias for a pop
  • Fall: Lavender + sedum + ornamental grass + violas
  • Winter: In mild climates, go minimalist with silver foliage (or let it rest and replant in spring)

If you’re in a cold zone, swap your planter’s companions with frost-tolerant annuals or decorative pinecones and moss for winter flair.

Mixed Planter Maintenance

  • Water at the base only—don’t soak the whole planter.
  • Trim companion plants regularly so they don’t crowd the lavender.
  • Watch for mildew or mushiness near the trunk and remove overgrown fillers fast.
  • Fertilize lightly once or twice a year—no gourmet meals needed.

Seasonal Care Calendar

Lavender trees might look fancy, but they're surprisingly low-maintenance—if you keep up with a few seasonal tasks. Think of this care calendar like a chore chart, but for a plant that smells amazing!

Indoor Lavender Tree Care by Season

Spring

  • Move to a sunnier spot as days get longer
  • Begin light feeding (once a month with diluted fertilizer)
  • Check for root binding—repot if necessary
  • Resume regular pruning to shape topiary

Summer

  • Water when the top inch of soil is dry (no more, no less)
  • Consider a vacation outdoors—gradually acclimate to avoid sunburn
  • Continue light pruning for shape and airflow
  • Keep an eye out for spider mites and aphids (they love warm, dry air too)

Fall

  • Bring your plant indoors before temps drop below 45°F
  • Ease off on fertilizing—let the plant slow down naturally
  • Give one last shape-up prune before winter
  • Rotate weekly in a sunny window to avoid leaning

Winter

  • Place in the brightest window you have
  • Water sparingly—every 10–14 days is often enough
  • Skip fertilizer entirely
  • Check occasionally for pests hiding in dry indoor air
A larger scallop basket with a large lavender tree.

Outdoor Lavender Tree Care by Season

Spring

  • Prune dead or woody growth before new leaves appear
  • Top-dress with a bit of lime if your soil leans acidic
  • Re-stake if wind or snow knocked things around
  • Check drainage after spring rains

Summer

  • Water deeply but infrequently (once a week is often plenty)
  • Deadhead blooms to encourage more flowers
  • Watch for fungal issues in humid climates—keep airflow strong
  • Pinch off any growth trying to sprout from the trunk

Fall

  • Stop fertilizing by late summer
  • Prune lightly to maintain shape (don’t cut back too hard)
  • In colder zones, move pots to a sheltered spot or prep for wrapping
  • Mulch the root zone (not the trunk!) with gravel or straw

Winter

  • For in-ground trees in mild zones, wrap with burlap if temps dip below 20°F
  • For container trees, bring them into an unheated garage or bright indoor spot
  • Water sparingly—just enough to keep roots from drying out completely
  • Skip pruning and let it rest (like you, lavender needs a break)
A planter on my potting bench with a lavender tree.

Transitioning Between Indoors & Outdoors

Moving your lavender tree in and out each year? Here’s how to keep it from going into shock:

Spring Move-Out:

  • Start with a few hours in dappled sun each day
  • Increase sun exposure gradually over 1–2 weeks
  • Hold off on fertilizing for a week after the move
  • Re-acclimate to wind and temp swings slowly

Fall Move-In:

  • Bring inside before nighttime temps drop below 45°F
  • Inspect for hitchhiking pests (spider mites love a free ride)
  • Trim lightly to reduce stress
  • Place in a bright spot and reduce watering frequency right away

Maintenance and Pruning

Proper maintenance and pruning are essential for keeping your lavender tree in top shape, whether it's indoors or outdoors. Pruning helps maintain a neat, tree-like appearance, encourages healthy growth, and prevents your lavender from reverting to its bushy form. Here’s what you need to know for both settings:

Indoor Pruning Techniques and Schedule

Pruning your indoor lavender tree is less about cutting back aggressively and more about shaping it into a tidy, upright tree. Here's how to keep it looking its best:

  • Prune regularly: Trim back any unwanted side shoots or lower branches that threaten the tree-like form. It's best to prune small amounts throughout the year rather than waiting for a major pruning session.
  • Time it right: The best time to prune is early spring to encourage new growth, but a light trim can be done in late summer after blooming. Avoid heavy pruning in winter when your plant is dormant.
  • Shape with care: When shaping, aim for a round, compact top that mimics the natural form of a tree. Keep the trunk clear of any growth, and only prune lightly at the top to maintain its symmetry.

Outdoor Pruning Considerations

Outdoor lavender trees face a bit more exposure to the elements, so pruning is crucial for health, shape, and longevity. Follow these tips to give your outdoor lavender tree the care it needs:

  • Prune after flowering: Once the lavender blooms and fades, prune it back to remove spent flowers. This will keep your lavender looking neat and encourage a fresh burst of growth.
  • Maintain the shape: For outdoor trees, it's important to prune in a way that preserves the "tree" structure. Trim any errant growth around the base and remove any side shoots on the trunk.
  • Hard pruning: Every few years, you can do a more substantial prune to remove any old, woody stems that are no longer producing leaves or flowers. Just be sure not to cut into the old wood that doesn’t have any green growth, as lavender won’t sprout from bare wood.
Pruning lavender with pruners.

Shaping Strategies for Different Environments

Whether indoors or outdoors, shaping your lavender tree is key to creating a balanced and attractive plant. The principles are the same, but the environment will affect how you approach it:

  • Indoor lavender trees: Because they’re in a more controlled environment, you can be more precise with your shaping. Focus on a clean, straight trunk and rounded top. Light, consistent pruning will keep the tree compact and well-proportioned.
  • Outdoor lavender trees: Outdoor lavender needs to be shaped to withstand the elements. Prune carefully to allow for natural air circulation, and avoid cutting too much of the top or trunk, as you need enough structure to hold up to wind and rain. It’s all about balance—trim enough to keep it tidy, but not too much to stress the plant.

Rejuvenation Methods for Both Settings

Over time, lavender trees can get a little leggy or suffer from wear and tear. Don’t fret! You can rejuvenate both indoor and outdoor trees with these strategies:

  • Indoor rejuvenation: If your indoor lavender tree starts to look leggy or overgrown, give it a light, all-over prune to encourage bushier growth. Repotting it into fresh soil and using a bit of fertilizer can also help it bounce back.
  • Outdoor rejuvenation: For outdoor trees, rejuvenation involves cutting back hard to remove old, woody growth. If your lavender has become too scraggly, trim it back to the last healthy set of leaves or branches. Adding mulch around the base will also help to nourish the plant and protect it through seasonal changes.

Pruning and maintenance don’t have to be intimidating—whether your lavender tree is indoors or outdoors, a little regular care goes a long way in keeping it looking its best!

Flowering lavender ready to be formed into a lavender tree.
English Lavender

Troubleshooting Common Problems

Here’s a clear and easy-to-read chart for troubleshooting common lavender tree problems, both indoor and outdoor, along with universal issues:

ProblemIndoor-Specific IssuesOutdoor-Specific ChallengesUniversal Lavender Tree ProblemsIdentification & Remedies
Yellowing Leaves- Overwatering or poor drainage- Overwatering or poor soil drainage- Poor soil drainage or overwateringIdentification: Leaves turn yellow, starting at the bottom.Remedy: Ensure the pot has proper drainage. Let the soil dry out between waterings.
Leggy Growth- Too little light- Too much shade or wind- Poor light, lack of pruningIdentification: Long, thin, spindly growth with sparse leaves. Remedy: Move to a sunnier spot (indoors or outdoors). Prune regularly to encourage bushier growth.
Drooping or Wilting Leaves- Underwatering or root rot- Extreme weather conditions (heat or rain)- Underwatering or overwateringIdentification: Leaves droop or become limp. Remedy: Water thoroughly, but don’t let the soil stay soggy. For outdoor plants, protect from extreme weather.
Pests (Aphids, Spider Mites, etc.)- Dusty or dry air- Excess humidity or wet conditions- Poor air circulationIdentification: Small insects on the plant or webs on the leaves. Remedy: Use insecticidal soap or neem oil. Ensure good air circulation around the plant.
Root Rot- Overwatering or improper drainage- Poorly draining soil- Overwatering or waterlogged soilIdentification: Foul smell from the soil or blackened roots. Remedy: Remove affected roots, repot in fresh, well-draining soil. Avoid overwatering.
Poor Flowering- Insufficient light- Overfertilizing or too much water- Lack of sunlight or poor pruningIdentification: Sparse or no flowers. Remedy: Ensure the plant gets at least 6 hours of sunlight daily. Avoid excessive fertilizer.
Brown Leaf Tips- Dry air or inconsistent watering- Windburn or exposure to frost- Lack of humidity, underwateringIdentification: Tips of leaves are brown and crispy. Remedy: Increase humidity indoors or move the plant away from drafts. Water consistently.
Leaf Curling- Pests (especially spider mites)- Heat stress or too much sun- Pests, overwatering, or heat stressIdentification: Leaves curl or become distorted. Remedy: Check for pests. Remove infested leaves, and prune damaged areas. Provide shade or more frequent watering if necessary.

This chart gives a visual breakdown of common lavender tree problems, their causes, and solutions for both indoor and outdoor care. It should help keep your lavender healthy, no matter where it's growing!

Harvesting from Indoor vs. Outdoor Trees

Lavender trees, whether grown indoors or outdoors, offer beautiful, fragrant blooms that can be harvested for a variety of uses. However, the growing environment can impact the quantity and quality of your harvest. Here’s a breakdown of the differences and best practices for each setting:

Yield Differences Between Growing Environments

Indoor Lavender TreeOutdoor Lavender Tree
Smaller Yield: Indoor lavender trees typically produce fewer flowers than outdoor ones due to limited space, light, and airflow.Larger Yield: Outdoor lavender trees benefit from more sunlight, better air circulation, and ample space to grow, leading to a higher yield.
Fewer Blooms per Stem: Expect shorter stems with fewer flowers due to the confined space and indoor conditions.More Blooms per Stem: Outdoor lavender has more room to stretch and typically produces longer stems with more flowers per stem.
Longer Growing Period: Indoor trees may take longer to mature and produce a harvestable amount of flowers due to less sunlight and limited space.Faster Growth: Outdoor trees, with the right conditions, can grow and flower more quickly, resulting in an earlier harvest.

Best Practices for Each Setting

Indoor Lavender Tree Harvesting:

  • Timing: Harvest your indoor lavender when the flowers are just beginning to open. This will give you the most fragrant blooms and preserve the essential oils.
  • Pruning: Be sure to prune back your plant regularly to encourage new growth. Trim flowers and stems carefully with sharp shears.
  • Harvesting Method: Use a pair of sharp scissors or garden shears to cut the lavender stems at the base of the flower. Make sure to leave some foliage so the plant can continue growing.
  • Light Control: Make sure your lavender gets at least 6 hours of bright, indirect light daily. Without enough light, it may not flower well, limiting your yield.

Outdoor Lavender Tree Harvesting:

  • Timing: Outdoor lavender can be harvested in full bloom, usually in late spring to early summer when the flowers are at their peak.
  • Harvesting Technique: Cut the stems of lavender flowers using sharp pruning shears, ideally cutting just above the leaves or woody parts of the stem. This helps promote new growth and ensures your lavender remains healthy.
  • Sun and Soil: Ensure your lavender is receiving the right amount of sun (6+ hours of direct sunlight) and well-draining soil for optimal blooming and flower production.
  • Regular Maintenance: Outdoor lavender can often be harvested more frequently, as it’s more resilient and produces larger yields. Be sure to remove any spent flowers to encourage continuous blooming.

Preserving Methods

Whether your lavender is grown indoors or outdoors, preserving it after harvesting will allow you to enjoy its beauty and fragrance year-round. Here are the best ways to preserve your lavender harvest:

  • Drying:
    • Air Drying: Bundle stems together and hang them upside down in a dry, cool area with good airflow. This will preserve the flowers' color and scent.
    • Silica Gel: For those wanting to keep lavender flowers looking fresh and vibrant, silica gel is a great option. Simply bury the flowers in silica gel to dry them without losing their color.
    • Oven Drying: If you need a quicker method, lay your lavender on a baking sheet and place it in the oven on a very low heat (around 100°F). This can quickly dry your lavender but may reduce its fragrance.
  • Freezing: Lavender can also be frozen for longer-term preservation. Just place the flowers in an airtight bag or container. Frozen lavender works great for cooking or adding to potpourri.
  • Lavender Oil: Harvested lavender can be used to make essential oils by infusing the flowers in a carrier oil, like olive oil, for a few weeks. This method preserves the plant's natural oils for use in homemade products like lavender soaps, lotions, or fragranced candles.
  • Lavender Sachets and Potpourri: Dried lavender can be used in lavender sachets for a natural fragrance boost in your drawers or used in homemade potpourri for a lovely, long-lasting aroma.

By understanding the differences in harvesting and preserving lavender from indoor versus outdoor trees, you can optimize your care and ensure you enjoy this fragrant herb throughout the year.

Lavender buds in a glass jar with a cork top.

Great Ways to Enjoy Your Harvested Lavender

  • Transform your garden's bounty into soothing herbal teas that calm the mind and aid digestion, with simple preparation techniques and creative flavor pairings
  • Create buttery, fragrant cookies with the perfect balance of rosemary and lavender - a sophisticated treat that will impress guests at your next gathering
  • Craft elegant sugar cubes infused with lavender essence, perfect for enhancing tea time or offering as charming homemade gifts
  • Elevate ordinary butter into something extraordinary with fresh herb blossoms butter that add color and subtle flavor to everyday meals
  • Fill your home with natural fragrance using summer simmer pots that combine lavender with other garden herbs for a chemical-free air freshener
  • Master the art of lavender-infused honey, creating a versatile sweetener that adds floral notes to everything from tea to roasted vegetables
  • Whip up light-as-air herb-infused whipped butter that transforms simple bread into a memorable experience, with step-by-step instructions for perfect results

These simple recipes help you bring lavender's garden-fresh flavor into your kitchen throughout the year, turning everyday ingredients into something special with minimal effort.

Frequently Asked Questions

How big will a lavender tree get?

Most lavender trees top out around 2 to 3 feet tall, including the pot, with a rounded top about 1 to 2 feet wide. Of course, if you let your tree go full jungle mode, it might stretch a little taller—but it's meant to stay compact. Think “petite and elegant,” not “miniature Christmas tree that took over the patio."

Do lavender trees come back every year?

Yes! Lavender is a perennial, which means it comes back year after year if you treat it right. Just don’t leave it out to freeze its roots off if you’re in a colder climate—outdoor trees need some winter protection, and indoor ones just want to avoid cold drafts and overwatering. Keep it happy, and it’ll keep blooming.

Is a lavender tree the same as lavender?

Yes, it’s the same plant, just with a little training and a lot of patience. A “lavender tree” is regular lavender that’s been shaped into a topiary form—with a single trunk and a puffball of flowers on top. Same fragrance, same flowers, just wearing a fancier outfit.

Where do lavender trees grow best?

Lavender trees thrive in sunny spots with well-draining soil—they’re basically sunbathers that hate wet feet.
Indoors: Put them near a south or west-facing window, and keep them warm and bright.
Outdoors: Full sun, good air circulation, and gritty soil are the name of the game.
They’re happiest in climates that mimic the Mediterranean—think dry, sunny, and a little on the breezy side.

Spanish lavender in burlap.

Expand Your Lavender Growing Knowledge

  • Discover the secrets to proper lavender fertilization with tips on timing, amounts, and homemade fertilizer recipes that promote abundant blooms without encouraging leggy growth
  • Learn which plants thrive alongside lavender in your garden, creating beautiful and functional combinations that enhance both plants' health and appearance
  • Master the fundamentals of growing healthy lavender from planting to harvest with guidance on soil preparation, watering techniques, and seasonal care requirements
  • Keep your indoor lavender plants thriving year-round with specialized care instructions for container growing, light requirements, and humidity management
  • Explore the unique characteristics of different flowering herbs that complement lavender in both garden design and practical household uses
  • Transform your garden into a pollinator paradise with lavender as the centerpiece, attracting beneficial bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds throughout the growing season

These simple guides help you create a thriving lavender garden whether you're growing indoors or out, making it easy to enjoy these aromatic plants in any space.

Lavender growing in a herb garden bed.

Whether you're growing a lavender tree indoors or out, success comes down to the basics: well-drained soil, plenty of hours of sun, and a little proper care. With the right conditions, your lavender will reward you with those signature upright flower spikes and that unmistakable fragrance we all love. It’s a plant that looks fancy but doesn’t ask for much—just a sunny spot and a gardener who isn’t too heavy-handed with the watering can. You’ve got this!

Happy growing!

My signature which is a drawing of me sitting.

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