Propagating Lavender: Step-by-Step Guide to Growing New Plants
Have you ever looked at the price of lavender plants at the garden center and thought, "There's got to be a cheaper way"? Good news - there is! After decades of growing these fragrant beauties, I've learned that propagating lavender from cuttings is one of the simplest ways to multiply your garden without emptying your wallet.
In this guide, I'll show you how to turn one lavender plant into many using just basic garden tools and a bit of patience (and maybe a cup of tea while you wait for roots to form). I've killed my fair share of cuttings over the years—trust me, if I can figure this out after drowning countless innocent plant babies, you absolutely can too. I've included all my hard-earned tricks, including the egg water technique that boosted my success rate from mediocre to impressive. So grab your pruning shears and let's make some free plants! Your wallet and your garden beds will thank you.
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What Does "Propagating Lavender" Mean?
Propagating lavender simply means creating new plants from existing ones without using seeds. When we talk about propagating lavender, we're referring to taking a small piece of an established plant—typically a stem cutting—and encouraging it to develop its own root system. It's like botanical cloning! The new plant will be genetically identical to its parent, preserving all those wonderful traits you love about your original lavender. The methods in this post gives you the opportunity to multiply your favorite varieties without spending money on new plants. Plus, it's incredibly satisfying to watch those little cuttings transform into healthy new plants that you've created yourself.
Why Propagating Lavender Makes Sense
Propagating from cuttings gives you new plants that are exact copies of the parent plant - all those characteristics you love about your existing lavender will carry forward. No surprises like you might get with seeds!
Plus, it's the only way to multiply certain types of lavender. Those gorgeous Lavandula x intermedia varieties? They're hybrids that don't produce viable seeds, so cuttings are your only option for making new plants.
I started propagating lavender when I realized I could have ten plants for the price of one. My first attempts weren't perfect (let's just say my success rate has improved from my early 30% days), but even beginners can expect good results with the right technique.
Best Time to Take Lavender Cuttings
Timing matters when taking cuttings from your lavender plants. I've tried it year-round and can confirm there's definitely a sweet spot:
Early summer: Perfect for softwood cuttings when the plant is full of new growth Late summer: Great for semi-hardwood cuttings that root well Early autumn: Works for hardwood cuttings in milder climates
I've had my best success rate with cuttings taken in late spring to early summer. The plant is vigorous, there's plenty of new growth to choose from, and the roots develop quickly in the warm weather.
Winter cuttings can work too, but they take much longer to root and need more babysitting. Why make gardening harder than it needs to be?
Softwood vs. Hardwood: Which to Choose?
When propagating lavender, you've got options:
Softwood cuttings are from the tips of the plant with fresh, green growth. They're flexible, have soft stems, and root faster. The catch? They wilt more easily and need more attention.
Hardwood cuttings come from the older, woody stems. They're tougher, more resilient, but slower to root. English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) roots well from both types, while French lavender and Spanish lavender (Lavandula stoechas) often do better with semi-hardwood cuttings.
For beginners, I recommend starting with softwood cuttings. They're more forgiving and give quicker results, which means less time waiting and wondering if you've done something wrong.
What You'll Need: Keep It Simple
Don't let fancy gardening catalogs convince you that you need specialized equipment. Here's all I use:
- Sharp, clean pruning shears or a sharp knife
- Small pots with drainage holes
- Well-draining soil mix
- Rooting hormone powder (optional but helpful)
- Clear plastic bags or humidity domes
- Spray bottle for misting
- Patience (still haven't found this one in stores)
Step-by-Step: How to Propagate Lavender
Step 1: Choose the Right Cutting
Look for a healthy, non-flowering stem. You want softwood or semi-hardwood — stems that are flexible but not squishy.
- Softwood Cuttings: Best taken in spring.
- Semi-hardwood Cuttings: Best taken in summer.
Choose a stem that's about 4-6 inches long. Avoid any that are flowering or too woody.
Step 2: Make a Clean Cut
Using sharp scissors or pruners, snip the stem just below a set of leaves.
- Cut at a 45-degree angle.
- Remove the leaves from the bottom third of the stem.
This bare section will go into the soil.
Step 3: (Optional) Dip in Rooting Hormone
Dipping the cut end into rooting hormone powder or gel can boost your success rate, especially with harder-to-root varieties.
- Tap off any excess powder before planting.
Step 4: Plant Your Cutting
Fill a small pot with well-draining potting mix.
- Poke a hole in the soil with a pencil or stick.
- Insert your cutting into the hole and gently firm the soil around it.
You can put several cuttings in one pot, spacing them about an inch apart.
Step 5: Create a Mini Greenhouse
Humidity is your friend while the cutting establishes roots.
- Lightly mist the cutting with water.
- Cover the pot with a clear plastic bag or place it under a humidity dome.
- Make sure the plastic doesn’t touch the leaves (use stakes or sticks if needed).
Improvised Greenhouse Hack: Don't rush out to buy fancy humidity domes or fiddle with plastic bags that never stay put. In a pinch, grab a large glass jar from your recycling bin—those pickle jars or pasta sauce containers work perfectly! Just place your newly potted cutting inside and flip the jar upside down over the top. I started doing this when I ran out of plastic wrap one day (story of my gardening life), and was shocked when these makeshift mini-greenhouses outperformed my "proper" setups. The clear glass creates the perfect humid environment while still letting in plenty of light, plus they're easier to monitor and look like a Pinterest-worthy garden project on your windowsill. Sometimes the best gardening solutions are the ones you cobble together from whatever's handy!
Step 6: Find the Perfect Spot
Place your cuttings in a warm, bright location out of direct sun.
- Near a north-facing window works great.
- Keep temperatures around 65-75°F.
Too much sun or heat can cause the cuttings to dry out before they root.
Step 7: Water Sparingly
Overwatering is the number one killer of new cuttings.
- Keep the soil slightly moist but never soggy.
- Mist the cuttings with a spray bottle as needed.
In a few weeks, you’ll start to see new growth — a sign that roots are forming!
Here's a trick I stumbled upon by accident: save the water from boiling eggs to water your lavender cuttings (once it's cooled, of course). The calcium that leaches into the water from the eggshells creates the perfect slightly alkaline environment that lavender loves. I've found my success rate jumped from about 60% to nearly 85% when I started using this egg water technique instead of regular tap water. Just make sure it's completely cool and use it only once a week—lavender still hates wet feet, even when the water is calcium-enriched!
Step 8: Transplant
After about 4-6 weeks (sometimes sooner), gently tug on the cutting. If you feel resistance, roots are established.
- Move each cutting into its own pot with fresh potting mix.
- Keep them sheltered for another couple of weeks to harden off before planting outdoors.
Congratulations, you just made a new lavender plant!
What's Rooting Hormone, Anyway?
Rooting hormone is a plant propagator's secret weapon—essentially a growth stimulant that gives your cuttings a head start in developing roots. It contains synthetic versions of natural plant hormones called auxins that tell plant cells, "Hey, time to grow some roots!" While not always necessary (some plants root just fine on their own), it can be a game-changer for trickier varieties like lavender. I've found that using rooting hormone typically boosts my success rate from about 50% to closer to 80%. It comes in powder, gel, or liquid forms—I prefer this rooting hormone powder since it's less messy and has a longer shelf life. Just remember not to stick your cuttings directly into the original container (unless you enjoy growing interesting new molds in your expensive rooting powder). Always tap off the excess, too—with rooting hormone, more is definitely not better! You can read more about rooting hormone in my popular, Water Propagation Made Easy: Tips and Tricks for How to Propagate Plants in Water post.
Water Propagation: An Alternative Approach
Some gardeners skip soil entirely and root lavender cuttings in water:
- Place prepared cuttings in a glass of water, making sure the leaf nodes are submerged
- Change the water every few days to keep it fresh
- Once roots form (usually 2-3 weeks), plant in soil
I've had mixed results with this method. You can see the roots forming, which is oddly satisfying, but I've found that water-grown roots sometimes struggle to adapt to soil. The success rate is lower in my experience, but it's worth trying if you're curious - like me!
Bonus: Propagating Lavender by Layering
Want an even easier (and totally hands-off) method? Try layering:
- Choose a low-growing branch.
- Gently bend it down to the soil.
- Nick the branch slightly where it touches the ground.
- Pin it down with a rock or garden staple.
- Cover the nicked section with soil.
In a few months, it will develop its own roots. Snip it free and pot it up! My Spearmint does this on it's own!
Caring For Your Baby Lavenders
This is where most propagation attempts fail. Lavender cuttings need:
- Consistent moisture (not wet, not bone dry)
- Bright light but not direct, harsh sun
- Good air circulation without drafts
- Protection from extreme temperatures
I cover my newly planted cuttings with clear plastic bags to create a mini greenhouse effect. Then I place them in a spot with bright, indirect light - an east-facing window is perfect.
Check your cuttings every few days. If the soil feels dry, give them a light watering. If there's condensation dripping inside the bag, open it briefly to let some air in.
As mentioned above, after about 3-4 weeks, gently tug on a cutting. If there's resistance, you've got roots! If not, be patient - some varieties take longer, especially hardwood cuttings.
Moving Day: Transplanting Your Rooted Cuttings
Once your cuttings have developed a good root system (typically 6-8 weeks), it's time to move them to bigger pots. Signs they're ready include new growth at the top or roots peeking out of the drainage holes.
- Prepare larger pots with well-draining soil
- Carefully remove your rooted cuttings
- Plant at the same depth they were growing before
- Water thoroughly and place in a sheltered spot
Let your new plants adjust to their new homes for a few weeks before exposing them to challenging conditions like full sun or cold temperatures.
Tip: Want to make the most of your lavender harvest? Try making soothing herbal teas with your dried lavender buds, or bake a batch of buttery rosemary-lavender cookies that guests will rave about. My lavender sugar cubes recipe turns ordinary tea time into something special, while fresh lavender blossoms can transform plain butter into a spectacular blossom butter. For natural home fragrance, check out my summer simmer pots guide, or learn how to create lavender-infused honey that adds floral magic to everything it touches. Don't miss my tutorial on herb-infused whipped butter that makes even simple toast feel like a special occasion!
Troubleshooting: Common Problems
Not every cutting will make it, and that's perfectly normal. Here are some common issues:
| Problem | Likely Cause | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Leaves turning black or mushy | Overwatering or poor drainage | Let soil dry completely between waterings; check pot for drainage; consider adding more perlite to soil mix |
| Cutting wilts and dies | Insufficient humidity or stem was too soft | Cover with clear plastic bag; try again with a semi-hardwood cutting that has slightly firmer tissue |
| No roots after several weeks | Impatience or incorrect temperature | Some lavender varieties take 8+ weeks to root; ensure temperature stays between 65-75°F; bottom heat can speed process |
| Mold growing on soil surface | Too much moisture with poor air circulation | Remove plastic covering for a few hours daily; reduce watering; increase air flow |
| Cutting turns yellow | Too much direct sunlight or nutrient issues | Move to bright indirect light; don't fertilize until roots are well established |
| Roots form but new growth doesn't appear | Seasonal dormancy or temperature fluctuations | Be patient; new growth often appears when days lengthen in spring; maintain stable temperature |
From Cuttings to Garden
Once established, your new lavender plants will need:
- Sunny spot/Full sun exposure
- Well-draining soil
- Minimal watering once established
- Protection from harsh winter conditions in colder climates
Final Tips for Success
- Start more cuttings than you think you’ll need. Not every one will take.
- Label your cuttings if you’re propagating multiple varieties.
- Be patient. Lavender roots more slowly than some plants, but it's worth it.
- Don't fertilize until the plant is well established.
Once you get the hang of it, you’ll never need to buy lavender again.
Quick Lavender Varieties That Propagate Easily
- English Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia): Sweet-scented and hardy.
- French Lavender (Lavandula dentata): Fast grower, frilly leaves.
- Spanish Lavender (Lavandula stoechas): Distinctive "rabbit ear" blooms.
Each type may have slightly different rooting times, but all follow the same basic steps.
Grow Your Knowledge About Lavender
- Keep your indoor lavender plants happy throughout the year with tailored advice on container cultivation, sunlight needs, and moisture balance
- Find out which flowering herbs pair perfectly with lavender to create beautiful garden combinations and useful household collections
- Get expert tips on growing healthy lavender from start to finish, including soil setup, watering strategies, and year-round maintenance
- Make your garden a pollinator haven using lavender as your focal point, drawing helpful bees, colorful butterflies, and darting hummingbirds all season long
- Understand the art of proper lavender fertilization with guidance on schedules, quantities, and DIY fertilizer formulas that encourage plentiful flowers without causing lanky growth
- Discover which plants grow well with lavender in your beds, forming attractive and practical groupings that boost the health and looks of all your plants
- Transform an ordinary lavender plant into an elegant lavender tree with step-by-step pruning techniques, shaping strategies, and seasonal maintenance to create a stunning focal point for gardens and containers
These straightforward guides support you in developing a flourishing lavender garden whether it's inside your home or in your yard.
In about a year, those little cuttings will develop into sturdy young plants ready to go into your garden. From there, the sky's the limit - more lavender for borders, containers, herb gardens, or even to start your own lavender farm!
Who says there's no such thing as a free plant? With just a few snips of healthy growth from an existing lavender plant, you can create a whole new generation of fragrant, beautiful additions to your garden. Not sure what to grow next? Explore by plant in the Herb Index.
Happy propagating friends!
